THE TOOLS OF THE TRADE
Which safety razor is right for you? For something that supposedly isn't thought much about these days, there sure are a lot of razors out there to choose from and the task can be a bit undauntedly for the newbie.
In this section, I will be discussing what is available, how to obtain it and the general maintenance of the safety razor. Hopefully, by comparing some of them here and using my suggestions, you will be able to make a decision and select the safety razor that is right for you.
Let's start with a razor that looks great, shaves wonderfully, and is very inexpensive for both newbie and experienced alike --
THE GEM
This lowly SINGLE EDGE razor is often overlooked and commands low prices on ebay due to it's unfortunate lack of interest right now in the used razor market. But it's not unfortunate for you. This is an excellent razor and I don't see any reason why a beginner should avoid it.
The blade is single edge vs. the double edge razor blades that are most common with safety razors. Made of carbon or stainless steel, these blades are thicker than their double edge cousins, and as a result, offer a closer shave -- some say just a step below a straight edge (cut-throat). The carbon blade is sharper, but be aware that it will rust after one shave if not properly treated. This is easily done by rinsing the blade with 91% rubbing alcohol. I can get 4-5 excellent shaves with one blade. For those who think this too much work, the other option is the stainless blades which require no care. The carbon blades are easily available at your local drug store for 3.50 per 10 blades. DO NOT USE BOX CUTTER BLADES IN YOUR RAZORS. THEY ARE NOT MEANT FOR SHAVING. The stainless blades can be purchased online from most vendors.
These razors are sexy. You can easily pick up a GEM MICROMATIC or GEM G-BAR for as little as 5-15.00 on e-bay. The Micromatic is a good razor and gives excellent shaves. When I first started wet shaving, I steered clear of these as I thought them pretty much display pieces without any value for actual shaving. Later, I became intrigued and saw one at an antiques shop and bought it on an impulse. I'm really glad I did. I cleaned it up (Dow's SCRUBBING BUBBLES is the best for cleaning your razors effortlessly) and was happy I bought this wonderful razor. I have used it continuously since then and have had some of my closest shaves with it.
Many belief that this is not a good beginners razor. I disagree. If you take your time, it will allow you to perfect your technique. These razors are slightly more aggressive than your typical Gillette, but if you have a thick beard and a face that isn't too sensitive, this could be the right razor for you.
There is another GEM razor called the G-BAR. This is a very sleek and handsome looking machine. Unlike the twist razors that open the blade door(s) for loading, this uses a spring mechanism that you activate by using your thumb, thus flipping up the top head of the razor so you can load the blade. This GEM model shaves even closer that the Micromatic, which is a "comb" type razor. As a result of this, there is less shaving cream on your face with each pass of the blade, giving you an exceptionally close mow. If you are a beginner, start with the Micromatic fist and later, you can work your way up to this one. GEMS razors are inexpensive enough that you can buy two of these for the price of a low-end Merkur.
If you're not convinced, then the next option we'll be discussing might work better for you.
THE MERKUR FUTUR
This razor is a beauty. It's a new razor made by the famous Merku razor makers in Solingen. German, it's a classic. This is what is referred to as an "adjustable" razor. It has settings ranging from 1 to 6. The higher numbers are meant for thicker beards. I stared off at 1.5 and progressed to my now current setting of 3.5, which seems to work fine for me. Since it is adjustable, a newbie can start off at a low setting and then increasing it to a higher number until you find the setting that works right for you. But remember: a higher setting does not mean a closer shave. A moderate setting allows you to make more passes, hence, getting a close shave without nicks or irritation. The razor, in general, is very well built and gives quality shaves.
This is a heavy piece of equipment to wield. It's nicely weighted and feels very solid in your hand. The double edge blade is replaced by popping the top using your thumb, off the head of the razor. Caution must be exercised here. When making a blade change, I place a towel in the bowl of my sink and hold the razor head downward pointing it to the sink. The head and blade fall onto the towel where I can carefully collect the used blade and retrieve the head. A new blade then gets placed holding the razor upright and gently placing the head on top of the razor and pressing it down gently. Again, caution should be used. It's an odd way, if not greatly safe, in my opinion, to replace the blade, but it will reward you in the seamless beauty of the aesthetics of the razor and the top quality shave you will get. Remember to make any adjustments to the razor BEFORE inserting a new blade NOT AFTER.
The razor is ok for the beginner as it is adjustable, but the blade changes could be slightly tricky until you get use to its temperament. Since there are no moveable parts on the head, it's easier to keep clean and maintain. It will last you your whole life.
Merkur makes the PROGRESS, which is another adjustable razor and is easier (and safer) to change blades). It costs about half less then the Futur, too.
The Futur is available in various finishes and matching bowels, brushes and stands.
Around 70.00 for razor only.
NEXT: GILLETTE RAZORS and the importance of the RAZOR BANK
