THE BIG LIE

(The Merkur FUTUR adjustable safety razor with blades made in Solingen, Germany - 54.00 - 60.00 US)

Recently, I read an article regarding men's skin care at one of the major Internet news outlets.  The author, a well known dermatologist was pontificating about how men could get a better shave.  In the article, he mentioned that one should start out using the popular multi blade razor, more specifically, the Gillette Fusion.  Shaving creams and soaps should be shunned in favor of a canned shaving gel.  This method which he extolled, was the modern and best way to obtain a close shave.  I sat there, just shaking my head in disbelief and feeling sorry for the guys he was leading astray with well intentioned but inaccurate statements.

After years of using a good electric, I found myself getting prone to razor burn.  Also, my shaves didn't seem to be as close as they once were.  I figured I needed to replace the block and foil and as I was perusing the internet in search of the replacements, I came across the SAFETY RAZOR.

I had seen these before in antiques stores and early print ads in old magazines.  I never gave them much thought except that I saw them as dangerous and ineffective, especially when compared with today's modern disposable wonders.

Curiosity got the better of me and I explored further.  After doing research on the net, I realized that there was a lot more here to meet the eye.  Wet Shaving (as it's called) consists of a safety razor, a double sided razor blade, a good quality shaving cream or soap, a shaving brush, and a bowl or mug.  Once the technique was perfected (a short learning curve, which is called "slow and easy"), you can expect smooth, close shaves with no nicks or irritation AND ALL AT PENNIES A SHAVE.

MYTHS ABOUT WET SHAVING WITH A SAFETY RAZOR

1. "I'll slice my face off with that!"

FACT: It's called a 'safety razor' for a reason.  You are less likely, if at all, to cut or nick yourself with a safety razor.  A sharp razor blade, a good shaving cream (not canned foam) and a good technique, will give you close, smooth, comfortable shaves.  Added bonus: No razor burn or ingrown hairs.  Also, one takes their time when shaving with a safety.  In this fast paced world we're living in, this is one of the few ways men can relax and enjoy the experience.

2.  "It takes too long to shave this way."

FACT: It takes approximately 15 minutes from start to finish to have a wet shave.  Yes, it's a bit longer, but remember: YOU ARE GETTING A BETTER SHAVE that not only looks good, but is a HEALTHIER way to shave.  One you have your technique down, your shave can be nearly as fast as you are now currently experiencing with your Fusion.

3.  "Shaving creams are expensive."

FACT: A tub of cream runs about 22-30 dollars.  It will last for three months or longer.  A can of shaving foam is around 5.00 a can and lasts for a month.  Savings is negligible.  Shaving foam dries your face.  Shaving cream adds botanicals and moisturizes your skin, giving your face a superior shave.  They are available in a large variety of scents.

4.  "It costs a lot to get started."

FACT: You can start today -- COMPLETE -- for 10.00.  You can spend as little or as much as you want.  College men have discovered this method of shaving as it's simple and easy on their wallet.  Consider that a disposable Fusion cartridges costs about 4.00, whereas a razor blade costs .12 - .25 cents a piece.  Add that up over time and you have a down payment on a car.

5.  "It's inconvenient."

FACT: No more that the set up your currently using.  The razor packs well and using a stick of shaving soap, eliminates the need to pack bulky cans of shaving foam.  Drugstores such as CVS, RITE-AID, WALGREENS carry safety razor blades.

6. "The modern way to shave is better."

FACT: Just because something is old does not mean it's not any good.  The manufacturers of the latest modern razor wants to dig into your pockets and dig deeply.  They make you a SLAVE to their disposable cartridges and they are laughing all the way to the bank!  You might ask if this is such a good way to shave, why isn't talked about in men's magazines?  That's because those publishers get huge advertising revenues from Gillette and Schick which tout their razors and they would be at risk of loosing that money if they started boostering traditional wet shaving.  Don't be a drone.  Join the revolution and brother of men who wake up and look forward to a ritual that once no man enjoyed, but now have found pleasure and contentment.

WHAT DO I NEED TO GET STARTED?

If you want to give wet shaving a try and want to keep your start-up cost down, all you need are the following:

1.  A BRUSH - I suggest the Omega shaving brush that is made out of boars hair (pictured above).  This is an inexpensive brush that is made in Italy and, surprisingly, is a very good brush.  You can also check e-bay for brushes, but be careful when choosing a used "antique" brush, as they could be inferior, even though they look "good".  The Omega brush mentioned above does an excellent job of whipping up your shaving cream and applies it efficiently to your face.  Even though I have an expensive Silver Tip Badger brush, I still use the Omega from time-to-time and enjoy it.

2.  BOWL - a small plastic bowl (the disposable ones you see in the supermarkets work well) will do the job.  Any small ceramic bowl that is fairly deep (not shallow) should do the trick.  Many online shaving vendors like SMALLFLOWER sell excellent quality bowls from Germany, that are moderately priced (25.00+) and should be one of the things you purchase when you start to get serious about wet shaving.  Plus there is the esthetic effect as it sits on your sink.

3. THE RAZOR - You can usually pick up a decent used double edge safety razor on e-bay.  Be sure to examine the pictures CAREFULLY and ask the seller a lot of questions.  These can be had for about 15-25.00 for a Gillette.  Since there are many kinds of razors -- Adjustable, slant bar, etc., do yourself a HUGE FAVOR and visit a wetshaving site, such as BADGER AND BLADE or SHAVE MY FACE.  These are wonderful resources and lurking or joining a form will answer many of your questions on all kinds of shaving topics.  The guys on these sites are very friendly and are kind to the newbies.  If you can, purchase a brand new razor, such as one made by Merkur in Germany.  Do your homework online and visit sites to check where you can get the best prices.  A new Merkur razor can be had for 20.00 if you are patient and shop around.

4. BLADES - This is probably the most important part of your new found joy.  A bad blade can mean a bad experience.  I would strongly suggest getting a sampler pack from BARBIERIA ITALIANA.  The proprietor of this site is an expert in the wet shave and has a very large selection of everything for the wet shaver at good prices.  He has the sampler packs there.  Personally, for me, I find the best blades to be the ASTRA STAINLESS, CRYSTAL STAINLESS, SWEDISH GILLETTES.  Keep in mind that if the blade is not stainless, it will rust literally over night in your razor.  The FEATHER from Japan is said to be the words sharpest razor blade...and it is.  I love this blade, but not sure if it's a good thing to start off with for the newbie.  Most of these blades mentioned are about 18 to 25 cents a piece and should give you 4-5 shaves (YMMV - Your Mileage May Vary).  One blade called 7 A.M. are made in Bangladesh and are very cheap (12 cents a blade) and give a very good shave for me.  If you buy these in bulk (100 tucks - 5 blades to a tuck), you get a really swell deal that will keep you in blades for a long time. 

Merkur makes razor blades, also, but I cannot recommend them greatly.  They seem to give an average shave and I find myself getting small nicks from them.  Their razors are wonderful -- their blades seem to be another story.  Plus they're not cheap.

5. SHAVING CREAM -- This is the big bonanza.  There is a huge assortment of good quality, traditional shaving creams to be had.  Creams, like blades, must be tried and experimented with.  For you, as a beginner, I would suggest PRORASO GREEN from Italy.  You can purchase a tube online for about 10.00.  The tube should last you approximately three months.  It's famous amongst wet shavers around the world and gives an very good and comfortable shave.  You might be surprised that you can buy the same cream made by Proraso at your local Bath and Bodyworks, under the name CE Bigelow Shaving Cream, again, for 10 bucks.  Omega shaving cream is also made by Proraso and has the same priceline and is a good cream.  There are very few brick and mortar shops that sell REAL shaving cream.  Most stores only carry BRUSHLESS varieties which are not true shaving creams at all and should be avoided.

After some experimentation with your cream and learning how to mix it with the correct water/cream ratio, and you begin to enjoy your wonderful shaves, the next step would be to obtain a couple of more creams to try out -- all with different scents and shavabilty.  Creams are very kind on your face and a good cream can make love to your razor as well as your face.  As for shaving soaps, I'll be discussing them later on.

6.  DICKINSON'S WITCH HAZEL -- A must for your shaving ritual.  After your shave, slapping this on your face will close your pores and heal any small nicks.  It's scentless and refreshing.  Since it has a low alcohol content, it's easy on your face.  I prefer Dickinson's to Thayers, which is sticky and leaves a film on your skin.  You can find this in most drugstores and chemists.

LOOK MA!  NO SCRUBBING!

Maintenance of you razor is so simple, it's frightening.  All you need is a bottle of Dow's SCRUBBING BUBBLES and you're in business.  I just pour a little in a cup and stick my razor in it.  Wait for about 10 minutes and rinse under cold water.  It's like factory new!  I live in an area with very hard water, so lime and calcium deposits are a huge problem.  This stuff works miracles.  A large bottle lasts forever.  For more stubborn gunk, use an old toothbrush after soaking. 

Some guys swear by vinegar, but I hate the smell.  Some use other things, but I have learned that Scrubbing Bubbles is pretty gentle on plated razors.  It's a good idea to clean your razor every time you replace the blade, which is about anywhere from 3-5 shaves (YMMV).  It's sort of like giving your car a tune-up -- it always runs better when you get it out of the shop.

PRE-SHAVES

A Pre-Shave is a cream or oil that is used to prepare your beard before shaving.  Some men swear by them and others are not such fans.  Personally, I think there is a great benefit from pre-shave creams.  Once the bead has been soften by showering, a small amount of pre-shave cream may be applied to the stubble before applying your lather.  You will have a closer shave with fewer nicks or any kind of razor irritation (which are rare with a safety razor, even without the pre-shaves).  The give you an extra layer of added protection, which is especially good if you have sensitive skin.

The most popular brand is by PRORASO.  But I enjoy PREP and 3P, all made in Italy.  The PREP smells like Noxema, but with the distinct scent of thyme.  P3 is a bit lighter, sans the thyme feature and less medicated smelling.  Both work very well, and a jar or tube will last you a long while, even when used daily. 

Also, an extra value to these creams is the fact they can be used as minor first aid on insect bites, sunburn and even diaper rash.

PRE-SHAVE OILS

When I first tired using a pre-shave oil, I hated it.  It always gave me un-even, if not terrible shaves.  I spent 28.00 on a small bottle of Truffit and Hill Pre-Shaving Oil, with bad results.  The thought of it just sitting on my shave shelf gathering moss was painful, especially at that price.  Through various shaving blogs, I learned that all was not lost.  Someone suggest making what was called in our wet shaving world as a "SHAVING COCKTAIL".  This consists of preparing your shaving cream in your bowl and adding a few drops of the pre-shave oil to the mixture.  I tried this the very next morning, and to my surprise, received one of the closest shaves!  So successful was this method, that I repeated it with some Musgo Real oil that I got a short time after, and had the same results.  Not only did it fortify my lather, but also added more protection to my face and turned up the scent of the cream a notch. 

The bottom line is that both pre-shaving creams and oils aren't necessarily needed to shave with, but if you have tender skin, or want to have what could be a closer shave, or just want to try it out, it's definitely fun to experiment with and could reward your skin in the long run.

COMING UP: POST SHAVE GELS/LOTIONS

POST SHAVE GELS

After you have finished you shave and slapped on some witch hazel, the next step is the application of a good aftershave gel.  Balms will be covered later, so now let's focus on four of my favorites.

I prefer aftershave gels over balms because they aren't as "sticky" and balms tend to make my face more oilier than it naturally is.  Plus I believe that they heal any rare nicks or cuts better.  It's really all a matter of preference, however.

The first aftershave gel is from JACK BLACK.  I like their men's skin care products -- the scent is clean and fresh with no heavy perfumes.  POST SHAVE COOLING GEL contains lavender, aloe and sage.  As with most AS gels, only a small amount is needed.  A slightly cooling effect (not frosty) can be felt on the skin.  It's one of the thickest gels in its consistency, but easily applied and accepted by your face.  I have had "shine" issues with this product -- after application, it tends to make your face a tad glossy, but it's minimal and wear away after a short time.  Again, the scent is clean.

18.00 for 3.3 oz is pricy.  yes, you don't need a lot, it's good stuff,  but if you use it everyday, you might need to get a second job.

Next up is COOLING SHAVE GEL from NANCY BOY.  I find Nancy Boy products to be of top quality and use their shaving creams, which amongst wet shaving affectianados is the Cadillac of shaving creams and have a world wide following.  This product is very similar to Jack Black's.  It is scented with there their Signature scent, which is nothing more than delicious, it is also available in their Replenishing fragrance, which is made from REAL cucumbers.  Both are perfect for summer.  Unlike the Jack Black product, there is little shine to the face after application.  It's 19.00 for a 4 oz. bottle (a buck more than the JB, but at least you get almost a full once more).  Again, used sparingling, but not for the budget minded.

  So far, we have covered two high-end post shaving gels.  So what's for those who are on a budget and want something of quality, yet not having to break the bank?  The answer is JASON'S 6-1 BEARD AND SKIN AFTERSHAVE GEL.  although I have and use the two products described above, this is my go-to AS gel.  It's filled with great botanicals like white tea, camomile, and aloe, including witch hazel.  It calms and sooths your face and makes it BBS smooth.  An incredibly clean scent, really almost un-scented, it will not interfer with your aftershave or cologne. The consistency is a bit thinner than JB and NB, but does the job just as well.  

But the best part is that it won't send you to the Poor House.  8 oz is only 4.00 online (6.00 in stores) and will last you a long time, even if used every day.  This is my #1 pick and my favorite. 

  As you can see, you don't have to spend a lot of cash to have a great wet shave.  But, if you have some extra lucre laying around, you will want to try the higher ended products, especially those from Europe.  Germany and Italy are wonderful countries that offer a great deal of WS soaps, creams, aftershaves and pre and post shaving lotions and gels.  Some are made with exotic botanicals, like mushrooms and others with special minerall waters from a certain region.  A few can be a bit overpowering scentwise, which is ok, because it saves you on the cologne.  Some deliver, some are just ok, even at 35.00 a pop, you just don't want ok.

  Recently I have discovered by way of my friend Giovanni at BARBIERIA ITALIANA and came across some WONDERFUL AS gel.  VIFREX actually touted as a preshave gel on his site, but I prefer creams to prep my face before shaving.  I got some on a lark just to see.  I never did use it as a preshave, but have been giggly ever since using it as a post shave gel!  WOW!  when applied, it's like an ice pack to the face!  Very cooling and almost stingy.  The scent is very old school barber shop and not overpowering.  You know it's there, but it won't linger for too long, thus enabling you to use your favorite aftershave or cologne.  The gel leaves your face smooth as silk and leaves no shine or residue. 

10.00 for a 50ml tube, it's up there with the more higher end stuff, but if you are ever in the mood to give yourself a treat, this would be it.

COMING UP: RAZOR BLADES